Hi, I bought an WEL Cruiser Maxiscooter a couple of month's back.
It is Chinese Jonway maxiscooter, 72V, 40Ah, 5Kw Jonway motor, Kelly
controller, no regen (thanks for that) and a pack of big yellow chinese
Li.ion batteries.
It works very well so far, with 1000km on it, but I wonder if the lack
of a BMS system is going to be a problem? Are they really needed? ;-)
Hi, I bought an WEL Cruiser Maxiscooter a couple of month's back.
It is Chinese Jonway maxiscooter, 72V, 40Ah, 5Kw Jonway motor, Kelly
controller, no regen (thanks for that) and a pack of big yellow chinese
Li.ion batteries.
It works very well so far, with 1000km on it, but I wonder if the lack
of a BMS system is going to be a problem? Are they really needed? ;-)
I recently came into possession of 2 sunbird rad 2 go scooters. i was hoping to make one out of the two. i am going to need help trying to locate repair info. wiring diagrams/schematics are No. 1. can somebody point the direction to start to search for this info. the wiring on both bikes has been "studied" by various people and left more or less there but disconnected etc. an owners manual would help. who manufactures these bikes? I am definitely a newbie to this broadening field and hope i can tap the resources on this forum. thank you in advance for any assistance.
sincerely,
bsamot69
Hi folks!
I am buying me a new electro maxiscooter. And now I need some your help.....with suggestions, advice ! I am looking for a maxiscooter, which is OK also for Highway....that means at least +100km/h (+60mph) and have a range of 80-100km ! I was looking for:
1) http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/456080379/HDM_42E_5000_8000W_lithium_battery.html
That one, I would get with 9000w 102V50Ah. Vmax. is around 70mph and range of 75-80mi! I don't know what batteries does it use, which BMS and charger...! Is it true, that that HUB motor would die after a while (100-500km) on full speed?
2) http://www.helectra.com/helectra-maxi-5kw/?lang=enk
That one is very similar, alittle bit slower in shorter range, and it's in Europe (Spain).1)-is in China!
I am looking forward for any of your ideas, help etc. !
I was really disapointed with the Vectrix today. I have been having a real problem with battery temps during charging. I have resorted to using a timer to charge late at night after the batteries cooled down. Moved the scooter to an air-conditioned space for charging and still seeing temps of 45-46 C at the end of charge. Way too hot! I removed the seat today and found a bunch of problems caused most likely from the idiot who did the battery recall. This scooter was recalled when new and was repaired before I purchased it. First, I found the Vectrix tool kit under the seat---a 2" wide scrapper left there by the "technician" In addition, the bolts on the battery cover were overtightened, bending the washers and deforming the cover. There was a rubber plug that two cables pass through into the battery that was missing. I found that and a bolt and washer from the battery cover in the lower cowl. There is a hole punched into one of the thin plastic covers that surround the battery. Worst of all, there is a connector on the top of the battery with nothing plugged into it. I had to remove the side cover to fix the rubber plug and remove the bolt and washer which was stuck out of reach. At that point I found a wire and connector with a plug that would mate to the connector on top of the battery. It was labeled "battery cooling fans"--I think I found the battery overheating problem. The plug and connector had two green magic marker stripes that matched, so it was connected at one time and inspected. I plugged in the connector, plugged in the charger and for the first time heard the cooling fans run. I have never heard another Vectrix on charge or even run, so I had no idea that this scooter for the entire 500 miles I have driven it never had any battery or electronics cooling at all. I am really concerned what these high temps might have done to the life of the batteries and other electroincs cooled by the same fans.
Just got my xm-4000li (used). The bike has been in storage for months. It was shipped to me from New York. First I got the DC-DC converter problem. That seems to be fixed now, See: DC-DC converter . Last night I charged up the moped to full. This morning I rode it to work, it is only 5 miles. During the trip the battery gauge dip down to the red zone at some hilly roads (about 10 - 15 degree and I only weight 135-lbs). When the needle was at the red zone the red LED was blinking. When I got out of the hilly road, the needle was not quite at the red zone but fairly close. When I got to work, the kickstand was down, the needle of the battery gauge indicated that I had use up about 30% of the capacity from full level. I plugged the charger to a 110v circuit, it took about 1hr to charge it back up to 100%. I have the following questions,
1. How bad of a shape you think my battery is?
2. The red LED on the dash board is on solid the whole time when I turn the moped on, is it normal?
3. Occasionally when I ride above 40 mils/hr or climbing a hill, the needle drop down to the red zone. Is it okay to ride light that?
Thanks.
Hi all,
I have a Chinese electric scooter that I got running (YAY) with self made, brain racking wire diagram diagnostics, and the help of an English guy and his new controller (Thank you for your help btw).
Immediately afterward I set up the "smart" charger to do it's job overnight and woke up to go to work. I worked till 230, got home @ 3pm, opened the garage and found three of the six 12v batteries swollen and smoking from the long charge. The supposedly "smart" charger was dumb indeed and did not stop charging for basically 24 hrs. (red light still on)...AAUGH!! I put out my cigarette immediately, disconnected the thing, let it cool a day and go to run the thing and it won't go well. With slow throttle it spins the wheel with little power and can hear the halls doing their job, but full throttle the wheel spins in short spurts of VERY little power. I checked the throttle for juice going in (5v right) and about 4.8/4v coming out at full throttle and find 4.8 going in but only 2.2 coming out.
I am assuming that the batteries are gone...DUH...and need to be replaced
Questions:
1. Must I replace all 6 batteries or can I get by with replacing just the 3 swollen ones (their freakishly expensive and I have little $$$)?
2. Where can I get inexpensive sealed lead acid batteries (or just batteries) from quick in San Diego?
3. Is the throttle bad or are my test results just the symptom of the bad batteries?
4. Why didn't the so called "smart" charger turn off like it was supposed to, is this common in a 6 battery bank (they all have the same charge btw)
I'd appreciate any advice from any of you eride guru's
Oil resiliant,
Steve
The first customer shipments of 9 of the new ZEV 7100 are getting ready to go out the door. This is the latest in the evolution of that basic chassis with the bike now holding 28 of the GBS 60 Ah battery at 84 volt nominal system. This is basically the battery pack and motor that was in the T 7100 model fitted over into the more standard scooter looking bike. Because we have a bunch of customers driving the T 7100 around for a year or more, we know the range and speed as being 100 miles at 65% power, or 50 miles at 70-75 mph. The bike with a 165 lb, 6ft rider runs over 75 mph. We just certified the bike in Australia also and got approval for 200 into EEC countries. $8900 retail in the USA. http://zelectricvehicle.com/19.html
With that power pack, the bike now has more range and speed than any other bike on the market at the moment. This is a lot larger than any of the Chinese, and the one bike that we know of with a similar size battery pack runs far less range and speed.
(although I am driving a new prototype of a ZEV T Series with 100 Ah battery in it to work and back 46 miles at 75 mph to try to get a bunch of miles on it before the snow stops the fun that will raise the bar again)
These bikes are using the 12 kw motor with the cooling finned cases. The controller is the 3 speed ZEV.
DHZ
Hi,
My name is Carol, I have a 48volt by 500watt electric scooter/ebike. I purchased some CRC Electronic cleaning spray to try and clean the inside of the throttle a little and the throttle stopped working. Picture of throttle with kill switch is Below:
I always keep a couple of spare parts in the garage in case of an emergency. I had a spare cheap throttle to put on the bike and everything was working fine, however, I wanted to get a throttle with a kill switch. Picture of spare cheap throttle is Below:
I have just purchased a new throttle with a couple of features on it. For example there is a kill switch and a Hi and low speed switch. For some strange reason when I changed the throttle over to the new throttle the bike started going slower, than the old cheap throttle that I was using. I didn't think I was going to make it back home.
I have changed the throttle back to the spare cheap throttle and the bike runs normally again. Unfortunately, I do prefer the kill switch. Each throttle has a magnet inside the throttle. Does anyone know what can cause the bike to go slower when changing the throttle?
All feedback would be much appreciated.
Thanks
Hello all,
Chinese 72v 1500w scooter, new throttle, six new 12v 18amp batteries (replaced 12v 20amp batteries), new 72v controller from Zenid (thank you Z), and now running again.
PROBLEM:
The thing has little power and the phase wires get hot QUICK. I upgraded to 12awg phases from the controller to outside the hub axle because of this, and they still get very warm.
I spin the motor on it's axle and it's a bit tight, kinda grips the wheel and stops it right before the end of a hand spin. I took it apart, inspected it, saw some slight rub marks, checked the bearings by hand and saw terrific free spin (when apart). put it back together, tried all allen bolt configurations and it still spins poor. kinda grippy (is this normal for sealed bearings with dirt protector?).
QUESTIONS:
1. How do I check for controller output under load (shouldn't drop right)?
2. Could the drop in amps from 20 p/battery to 18 p/battery affect its power this much?
3. What could make the phase wires get hot even after an awg upgrade and battery amp drop?
4. Would a motor replacement stop this and make it run like it should?
It still has kinda a grindy noise when under load at the take off too.
I have looked to golf cart repair people, e-bike guru's online and in town and NOONE will even look at the thing for under $75 an hour (it would take tthat just to understand anything about it).
I'm about ready to roll it off a high cliff under it's own slow power, or light it on fire and then do the previous....aaugh!!
any thoughts that could lead me to the culprit would be appreciated and here's a wire diagram plus open wheel pics
Thanks all for any help and/or thoughts
Steve'out
Hi All
I've been scouring the forums and website to try to find the answer to my questiosn but, for some reason, I find this site very difficult to navigate, find answers to questions and generally get around. So... if you don't mind, I'd like to ask a question....
I've arranged to buy a Vectrix (this Friday!) which has a NiMh battery in it. It's a 2008 'original' Vectrix on the OEm battery. My questions are: what should I do/watch out for when charging the battery? I want to look after the battery (and the bike) but I'm not familiar with how one should treat a NiMH battery. I'd be grateful if people could enlighten me on how to ensure longevity, good charge, avoid damage through incorrect use or incorrect charging etc. Basically, sensible battery care...........
Any input will be appreciated. As would anything general about caring for the bike...
Thanks!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5SGsN2Wciw&feature=plcp
Model of 2012 by Lukas two .
Hurry up for order and reservation for make a test
Anyone heard of EMCO ? or any other new brand big scooter ?
Like a lot of Vectrix owners, I am reluctant to sink a lot of monies into a 6 year old scooter just to ride it a very short distance. Lithium packs are expensive and Gold Peak NiMH cells are hard to come by. So out of three VX-1 scooters I hope to make one good pack of batteries for my best scooter. I believe 6 modules of 8 cells and 6 modules of 9 cells so that is 48 cells plus 54 cells equal 102 cells of 1.2 volt each equal 123 to 125 volt pack voltage. My question is that- how little can I get away with just to make motorcycle just Run? I would like to keep one stock with all stock charger controller and batteries. One with just Positive and Negative of 125 volts worth of any kind of battery pack whether it be Pb or Lithium or even model airplane NiMH cells. No charger and I will figure out charging via an Anderson connector of new proper charger for appropriate pack. The third scooter will be parts of which it already really is. Out of the third scooter I have a two pack of 9 cells which have maybe a good 20 to 25 AH 10 hour rating in old pack. Now that is impressive for a NiMH pack of 6 years old. It has about 11.25 volts and I use it rarely with of course no load on it till I use it and never dies like other two VX-1 scooters. They always have a computer bring it down in a 3 week period.Will the bike start up with 120 to 130 volt pack and sort of go or does it have to be programmed to do its thing? How would a separate charge going into "new" pack affect batteries? Reason I ask is the Vectrix charger is tied to computer therefore put in 30 AH plus 20 minutes at 3 1/4 , 4 amperes to equalize. I do have lots of Pb batteries of the EVX12200 CSB brand to waste on it if I need a Pb sled again. Also lots of 120 and 132 and 144 volt Pb chargers for Gel Cell packs.
So before I strip bike down to frame I would like to know what I can leave out making the light weight VX-1 I can make then add batteries whether it be one mile range like RC battery pack or real Lithium or Pb packs. I figure remove charger and stock batteries is all I can do for computer is needed to run bike?
Is it possible to do Regen on any of the XM series scooters? Even the tiny Vectrix VX-2 lead sled can do regen along with the Zero and big VX-1 scooters. It sure could help with over all range. I notice the steep hills kill my range and I wish there was a just a tad to give back on a steep down hill grade. I slow down to a crawl and into red zone and just about stay there because of the steep hills drawing 40 plus amps on a 38 AH pack. Then after 8 or 10 miles I can't draw even 25 or 30 amperes to keep up speed. Do I have to swap out controller or can I feed some voltage in the controller to do Regenerative braking to put some juice back into pack. I am on my third controller anyways so that is an easy to do item. On another note, I notice hub motor seems to get a might bit warm so I don't know if it is hot from brake disk or just the amps running the motor. I wouldn't have noticed it much but I have to use a Xena lock on all wheels and a Master lock through holes to keep it chained up while parking.
I am looking for something to carry my wife & I around a campground. A vehicle that'll carry 370 lbs, yet manageable by a single person. Don't need to go far, nor fast. Maybe from our campsite to the beach and back, to the camp store for a bag of ice, etc. Want to carry it on the back of our van/trailer hitch. We know nothing about electric scooters, moped, bicycles or what ever. That's why I here, asking these questions. What should I watch out for? Heard nothing but horror stories about vehicles made in China. But how do you know? What's good and what's bad, I need a bunch on help!
thanks
We got a Harbor Freight tool store in Salem New Hampshire just like a California Harbor Freight. So since the prices were so good I got a 100 PSI 1/2 Cu foot per minute air compressor for kick around use. I noticed upon taking it apart it had a small tread mill motor in it. So I plugged it in my XM-3000 and it ran. Well slowly, but it ran and up to 75 PSI. Then I unplugged it for I didn't want to over work and under-voltage unit in first day. I also tried my DeVilbiss air compressor and it too worked. It might work better on 72 or 84 volts but what the heck. All I need is 35 to 50 pounds and not too fast. My Mac Book Pro even works on 60 volts too. I do know if it did get up to pressure the switch would arc on because of it is an AC switch and not DC rated so it doesn't have magnetic blow outs like Curtis uses on their contractors. I use my scooter for Ham radio a lot. It has a nice big DC - DC converter to 13.8 volt at 25 amperes. When I plugger Central Pneumatic in my 96 volt car it really screamed so I have to guess a 84 volt pack fully charged it about tops for those oil less compressors. The price is 50% off for $39.95 this week at least here in this area. It is a new store and I have a new play toy. So a lot you can do with a 60 to 84 volt system.
Some brands are available only overseas, while others have closed their doors. Who is still offering moped-class and above e-scooters?
Thanks.
Recently I finished some modifications to my Z Electric Vehicle Model 6100 and thought it was time to document all the modifications I have made. General stats on the 6100 can be found in my signature or on the ZEV company website.
The first and probably the most important modification I made was to add a Cycle Analyst computer to the scooter. I mounted it in the middle of the handle bars and it perfectly matches the bike (looks like OEM equipment). The Cycle Analyst is an amazing tool and widely used on e-bikes, e-scooters and DIY e-cars. For this scooter, the main advantages are: accurate speed, mileage, current, voltage, WH/Mile, AH used, charge cycles, total AH, and total mile readings. The AH reading is a great tool for knowing range left, no matter how many opportunity charges have been made in a single trip. I have it set up to decrement AH back toward zero as the scooter charges. I typically use 1AH/mile, so it makes range calculations super easy.
Next I swapped out the standard headlight bulbs and replaced them with Halogen bulbs. I wasn't really using the scooter for night rides, but a friend had some extra bulbs, so I bought the bulbs thinking that they could only help. I have to say, I wasn't that impressed with the high-beam pattern that the Halogen bulbs produced.
I'm not a fan of voiding warranties on expensive items, so 2 1/2 years later and 6800 trouble-free miles, I made the following modifications.
I was told by the manufacturer that after the first year of use, I might want to adjust the steering head bearing ring. That seemed like a pain, and I wasn't experiencing any steering issues so I waited until recently to adjust the bearing. I bought a 40mm hook wrench and very easily adjusted the bearing. Just remember to loosen the notched ring first, then the lock nut on top of it.
While I had the plastic handlebar cover off adjusting the bearing, I took care of a few modifications in that area. The first modification was to remove an unnecessary switch. When I first installed the CA, I installed a DTDP switch to select between the OEM throttle or the CA virtual throttle for controlling the throttle voltage sent to the motor controller. This turned out to have been a huge complexity that never needed to be done as I always used the stock throttle to control the motor controller. My recommendation to anyone adding a CA - disable the CA from controlling the throttle and your installation will be very easy.
Next modification was to add the TNC Scooter model #101100 throttle. One of the first things new ZEV scooter owners do is complain about the throttle being too abrupt - providing too much current on initial acceleration. I really didn't mind this -I kind of liked feeling the strong acceleration. ZEV had mentioned to me that you could make the scooter crawl at walking speeds on startup, and I have to say I initially didn't believe them. But to prove them wrong, I went out into my large driveway and tried to make it initially crawl. It turned out they were right, but it wasn't intuitive on how to use the OEM throttle. There is an odd slight delay in turning the throttle and when the scooter starts to move slowly. Most folks just turn the handle until power is delivered and hence get more power than expected. So after understanding how to use this throttle, I happily put thousands of miles on the scooter.
Years ago I had bought the TNC throttle because so many other owners seemed happier with it. So with the handlebar cover off, I proceeded to install it. I found a slight modification to the throttle was needed. I cut a hole in the end of the throttle so it would slide into place on the handlebar and allow the use of the OEM handlebar end cap. It works great and the abrupt power surge is gone.
The next modification was to get rid of the halogen lamps and add a LED projection bulb headlight assembly. This headlight assembly is much more efficient with the low or high beams using only 4W or 12W total respectively. The pattern is much more like that of a car than the puny pattern I was getting off the Halogen lamps. I expect this headlight assembly will fit the ZEV standard scooters as well as the XM-xxxx scooters as they seem to use the same front body panel. Contact ZEV for details on this assembly. I'm very happy with these new lights.
I then took off a couple body panels to get access to the batteries and to inspect the frame welds. All frame welds were intact. The reason to get to the batteries was to add balance leads to each cell. Out on HobbyKing.com, they have inexpensive battery monitoring devices that display the voltage on up to eight cells at a time (Cell Log 8M/8S). Great battery cell diagnostic devices. These devices also can supply redundant LVC/HVC alarms. I like the idea of having a redundant BMS even though my existing BMS is still working great.
To install the balance leads, I took three 10 conductor, 24AWG cables, cut off one of the wires and installed each 9-wire cable to a group of 8 cells. The reason for the 9 wires for 8 cells is you need the most negative terminal plus the 8 positive cell terminals to measure all 8 cells. The other end of the cable was terminated in a 9-pin female connector with .1" spacing between lines. This connector mates to the Cell-Log devices.
Now I know the voltage of each cell while charging, discharging or resting. I can use these Cell-Log devices to provide redundant HVC or LVC functions. Much more information on and modification of these devices can be found out on www.endless-sphere.com.
I have to say I'm very pleased with my 6100 for what it is. Yes I would like the added range and faster charging current that a larger capacity pack would give, but the 6100 does handle the vast majority of my needs.
